Judeo-Arabic Flavors: Tunisian Jewish Recipes from the Early Twentieth Century
Unknown
1900
[Title Page]
And You Shall Cook and Eat (Deuteronomy 16:7)
Livre de Cuisines [Cookbook]
This book concerns all types of foods, appropriate for rich and poor, for holidays and other days. The composer of this book is F.I.
To be sold by Abraham di Hai Touil
Sidi Khalaf Road No. 4
Tunis
Printed by Jacob Guedj, al-Doulatli Road 19
Copyright Reserved
[Flyleaf]
This Judeo-Arabic cookbook, published in Tunisia at the turn of the twentieth century, offers a rare glimpse into North African Jewish cuisine. Its brief recipes—such as “Squash with Coriander” or “Tongue and Brains” simply fried in flour and eggs—reflect a blend of Tunisian, Levantine, French, and Mediterranean influences. Featuring dishes like shakshuka and tajin with meat and potatoes, it reveals the fusion of Old World traditions with New World ingredients, while an advertisement on the flyleaf hints at its dual role as both culinary and commercial artifact.
It is clear that the author, whose initials are F.I., was a member of the Jewish community of Tunis and was probably involved in the tight-knit world of local Judeo-Arabic publishing there. A possible candidate is Eli‘ezer (Lazzero) Farḥi (1851–1930), a noted Livornese Tunisian writer and journalist who published widely in Judeo-Arabic, under both his own name and various pseudonyms. The publisher of the cookbook, Jacob Guedj, trained as a printer in Algiers and then opened his own press, producing works of Hebrew liturgy and popular Judeo-Arabic literature. In 1895, Guedj moved back to Tunis and reopened his press there, continuing to print until the mid-twentieth century.
These recipes don’t look like recipes we see in cookbooks today. Why do you think so few details are given for the preparation of these recipes?
How can you tell that this cookbook is only one part of a rich Tunisian Jewish culture?
Who do you think the author of the cookbook was? What clues do you have?
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